Balenciaga by Lesley Ellis Miller
Cristobal Balenciaga established his first dressmaking house in 1917 in San Sebastian.
For the first time I have been reading such a complete book about a couturier, with a strong business focus. I really enjoyed this book and I found it almost academic in the way different aspects of running a couture business are treated.
Cristobal Balenciaga established his first dressmaking house in 1917 in San Sebastian. Until he opened his Parisian haute couture house he travelled to Paris for inspiration and when in 1937 he started his Parisian business he already had an experience of 20 years and a good understanding of the system. Reading this book made me realize how the business aspect was as important as creativity, just like today.
Balenciaga had a strong reputation in fashion and a protective approach for the value of his designs, so much that in 1956 he postponed his showings to the press to avoid the piracy of his designs. He shockingly decided that the press should see his designs 4 weeks after the private customers and commercial buyers. He trained his models himself and pressured the press to make shootings only with in-house models. Not only, the book states that most of the sketches that survive in the archives of the house bear two names: the name of the workshop head who was responsible of making the garment, and the name of the mannequin, who would present the model to the clients.
The book covers the beginning of Balenciaga's career in Spain, his business in Paris and the commercial culture which led him to manage both Spanish and Parisian businesses. In detail, his store organization, staff, production costs, competition analysis, clientele is analyzed as well as his inspirations.
Balenciaga retired in 1968 after the spring collections. It was his choice to not produce ready-to-wear. In the changing nature of fashion, he thought there was nothing left to do for him. From the book: "I regret not being younger, as I would create amusing but tasteful ready-to-wear, as the times we live in demand. For me it is too late."
Highly suggested read. So much that it inspired me to go to the Museum of Balenciaga in Getaria this spring.
http://www.amazon.com/Balenciaga-Lesley-Ellis-Miller/dp/1851775226
