The Mechanic Of Underwear Exhibition

"The mechanic of underwear" exhibition in Paris

Fashiononbookshelves was in the exhibition "La mecanique des dessous"in Paris's Les Arts Decoratifs. This is the history of the changing silhouette of women from 14th century to now. From corsets to panniers to crinolines and finally to the contemporary designers who get endless inspiration from them.

Each silhouette reflects a specific period in the history of fashion; conical bust and slender waist for 18th century, tubular silhouette for 1800s, S shape of 1900s and as it was said in the explanations "They equivocally demonstrate that there is no natural body, but rather a cultural body. The body reflects the society that oversees its creation." This is so true and  what never changes from the beginning of the exhibition till the end is the "constraints" women had, to fit socially acceptable silhouettes.  This doesn't change in 2013. Fortunately no whalebone stays are used now but nevertheless women still has to suffer to look beautiful.

Through this exhibition the importance of what Paul Poiret and Coco Chanel did for women, by freeing them from the corset, becomes clearer than ever. Surely it was a revolution to finally start breathing. 

Panniers: Also known as hoop petticoats, they were the indispensable part of a women's undergarments used to extend the width of the skirts at the side.

Crinoline: After the panniers, Crinoline first appeared in 1830s as a stiff fabric composed of threads of cotton and a horsehair mesh, used maintain a skirt's fullness. By the mid 19th century it referred to a metal cage, lighter than the previous ones, it was made of steel hoops.

Bustles and crinolettes: Around 1870 bustles and crinolettes took over and they were smaller structures used to create false backsides. Unlike crinoline, bustles changed the entire silhouette without changing the body itself. 

There is a book available with the same name but only in French. Please Parisian libraries, think about the expats.